1. olive oil--for babies. Notice that it's made by Nestlè, it's got a kid-friendly blue bear on the label, and it's enriched with extra vitamins. It doesn't taste all that great, but Italian babies don't know that yet.
"I've just had an Italian moment." An expat friend of mine used to say this when referring to moments of: 1. bewilderment (attempting to drive for the first--or fiftieth--time in Italy), 2. mind-boggling frustration (including any and all experiences with bureaucratic Italian paperwork, which must be officially stamped to within an inch of its life), and 3. awe (drinking a creamy cappuccino in an outdoor cafe, surrounded by 300-year-old buildings).
"I've just had an Italian moment." An expat friend of mine used to say this when referring to moments of: 1. bewilderment (attempting to drive for the first--or fiftieth--time in Italy), 2. mind-boggling frustration (including any and all experiences with bureaucratic Italian paperwork, which must be officially stamped to within an inch of its life), and 3. awe (drinking a creamy cappuccino in an outdoor cafe, surrounded by 300-year-old buildings).
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
The Mediterranean diet for bambini...
1. olive oil--for babies. Notice that it's made by Nestlè, it's got a kid-friendly blue bear on the label, and it's enriched with extra vitamins. It doesn't taste all that great, but Italian babies don't know that yet.
Monday, February 26, 2007
We interrupt the grocery shopping posts...
I was at the corner store this morning getting a few groceries (I promise, this isn't about grocery shopping), and I asked the man behind the deli counter for some cheese. If you've read my "Village People" post, this man is Sonia's husband, Sonia being the lady who was telling me about her colicky granddaughter.
So as he was wrapping up the cheese, I asked about his granddaughters (he's got two--a 3-year-old and a 2-month-old). A grin spread across his face, and he said, "Do you want to see something great?" I was sure he'd show me a photo of his granddaughters. "Sure," I said. He came around the counter holding a small piece of paper to his chest so I couldn't see it. "You know those Chinese people?"
I raised an eyebrow. (Actually, I can't really do this, although I've always wished I could. In my mind, though, I raised my eyebrow). "Um, Chinese people?" I answered.
"You know, the ones on the bikes with that contraption thing in the back that holds sacks of rice?"
I'm guessing he meant a rickshaw-like contraption. "Sure," I said.
He held the paper out where I could see it and grinned. There was a sketch drawn in blue pen of a bicycle with an extention in the back that looked like a cart. He lowered his voice, like this was all top secret. "I'm going to build this," he said. "But not for carrying rice...it's for carrying my granddaughters!"
I oohed and ahhed over the sketch and the idea, and then he said, "Here, I'll show you." He waved me back into the storage room and pointed to the rafters where two used children's bicycles hung. "I got these second-hand," he said. "I'll use the wheels for the cart." And then he told me how he'd paint the cart red, put in a soft cushion covered in fake fur (not sure where this idea came from) and he'd have seat belts. And when the girls are old enough, he'd take them to Lipiza (a few kilometers away in Slovenia, with miles of tree-lined paths).
"And then," he raised his arms with a flourish, "Andrò in giro con le mie due stelline," which means he'll take a spin with his two little stars.
I've chatted with this man many times over the past few years, and he's always been friendly. But I've always thought of him as the "Deli Man," and nothing more. From now on, I'll see him as the rickshaw-building Nonno pedaling around Lipiza carting his two little stars behind him...
Friday, February 23, 2007
Grocery Shopping Italian-Style
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Martedì Grasso
Carnevale Parade in Opicina
These are some photos of the parade we saw on Saturday in Opicina, the village where my girls go to school. The village was packed with people. The weather would have been perfect if not for the blistering cold wind, but we still had a good time. Basically, parents and small children lined the streets watching the parade, while teenagers chased each other with shaving cream and spray cans of this sticky, colored stuff that doesn't wash off easily if you're caught in the crossfire (I know this for a fact).
It was funny to watch the teens...some things don't change from culture to culture. Like American teens at Halloween, their Italian counterparts were dressed in "cool" costumes (no Minnie Mouse or Donald Duck), and most of them weren't wearing jackets--a big sign advertising: "My parents are home in their warm houses, and have no idea I'm jacketless." In trying to be cool, they must have been freezing. And then watching them chase each other was interesting...it was usually initiated by the boys. If a boy had his eye on a member of the opposite sex, the ritual went something like this:
1. Grin and wave the spray can of shaving cream/silly string/colorful hard-to-wash-off goo at the girl you like.
2. Announce that you're about to spray her.
3. Your object of desire will then communicate her degree of receptivity by either a.) rolling her eyes (this is not good), or b.) shrieking and running away (this is a blantant invitation to start spraying).
Since I can't figure out how to post new photos here, I'll create a new post for yesterday's Carnevale party...
Saturday, February 17, 2007
to be continued...
Happy long weekend to all!
Friday, February 16, 2007
I thought I'd seen it all...
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I really thought I'd seen all Italian parking options. Turns out I hadn't.
Yesterday I spotted this tiny Fiat 500 parked...on a crosswalk. It's hard to see because it's an evening shot, but there are actually two crosswalks perpendicular to each other. And the driver decided to leave his car in the middle of one of them.
While I stood there on the sidewalk, two police cars drove by. And no, they didn't even slow down. Maybe they were late for their coffee break...
Thursday, February 15, 2007
The Village People
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Parking on the sidewalk...
Italians are creative--there's no doubt about it. Just look at the number of famous Italian artists, from Michelangelo to Botticelli to Da Vinci. So it's no wonder that such an auspicious gene pool breeds creativity. And nowhere is this creative streak more apparent than in the modern Italian art form of...
parking.
Here's a photo of the front of the bar I showed you in my last post. Let's pretend you're an Italian in need of a cappucino. You're in your car. What do you do?
1. Head toward the nearest bar (cafè).
2. Scout out a free parking space (cue theme song from "Mission Impossible.")
3. Drive past the bar. (Theme song intensifies).
4. Realize the folly of trying to find a free parking space.
5. Turn the car around.
6. Pull up on the sidewalk right in front of the bar (avoiding any pedestrians and women with strollers, if possible).
7. Go inside, order your tiny cappucino, and down it in one gulp.
8. Head back to your car.
Note: If there were a police car outside the bar, you would proceed in exactly the same manner, except you'd put on your hazard lights--which roughly translates as: "I know I'm parked illegally, but I promise I'll be right back. Really. As soon as I drink my coffee." Then you belly up to the bar next to the policemen drinking their coffee.
Mission accomplished.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
An Abundance of Breasts*
Although the Carnevale (car-neh-VAH-leh) season won't officially begin until later this week, Italians are already gearing up with decorations and a few costume parties for kids.
Can you guess where this photo was taken? No, not outside a cabaret. No, not at a night club. I took this photo outside the bar right down the street from my daughters' school. (Bars here aren't like bars in the U.S.--they're more like cafès where the beverage of choice is always coffee.)
You may notice that the writing in the center is in French--strange, since the Italians aren't France's biggest fans.
And you may notice the writing on either side of the women, announcing the upcoming Carnevale festivities in Italian on the left and in Slovenian on the right (this village is about 3 miles from the border with Solvenia).
But apart from that, what stands out most to you? I know the photo is a bit grainy, but look closely. What's peeking out above the blue and red boas?
Yup. Breasts.
I was the only one who did a double-take when I saw this display while drinking my coffee. The rest of the crowd--men, women and children--didn't pay any attention.
Breasts are just not a big deal in Italy. Newsstands openly display magazine covers with breasts. Female newscasters wear lowcut shirts that barely contain their breasts. Walk into a pharmacy, and you'll see advertisements for skin care products that showcase--you guessed it--more breasts. Even one of my daughter's preschool teachers always wears outfits that reveal her cleavage. And no one thinks anything of it.
In the summer, women of all shapes, ages, and sizes let everything hang out (literally) at the beach. Men and women meet and greet each other, drink coffee, play cards--and not one top in sight.
I'll admit, I just can't do this. I know this "breasts-are-no-big-deal" attitude is probably much healthier than our puritanical American view of breasts. But the thought of running into someone I know and carrying on a conversation while half-naked? I can't imagine. I try to take the "When in Rome..." attitude with most things in Italy. But even the Romans wore breast-concealing togas, didn't they??
Friday, February 09, 2007
It's all done with mirrors...

Remember the curvy street I showed you a few posts ago? The picture on the left is a shot from the opposite direction, towards the village church. On the front left side of that photo, you'll see a white wall with a small, arched opening (which houses a statue of the Madonna, by the way). To the right of the arch is a pole, and on top of that is a round, curved mirror. It's a bit difficult to see, so I included a close-up of another mirror in the top photo.
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
Nowhere near as busy as a bee...
While we're on the topic of all things miniature, I thought you might get a kick out of these photos. These are both mini-trucks about the size of a Volkswagon Beetle.
The Coca-Cola truck looks like it can haul a grand total of four cases of Coke. Which begs the question: how many deliveries can this thing really make? It's parked outside the bar/bakery in my village, where the delivery guy unloaded a case of Coke. He then spent 45 minutes drinking coffee, chatting with the villagers, and reading the local newspaper. At this rate, it should take him all morning to deliver that Coke...no need for a large-capacity truck, now--is there?
The red truck above is called an Ape (AH-peh), which means "bee" in Italian. It must get its name from the sound of the motor--a high-pitched whine that intensifies as the driver puts the pedal to the medal, bringing the vehicle to it's maximum warp speed of about 25 mph.
At first glance, it may seem as if the front wheels are missing. But look closely, and you'll see one wheel in the front center...that's right, this thing's only got 3 wheels. It's the tricycle of the truck world. Two regular-sized adults can squish into the cab, but only if they know each other well (and get along). The Ape is popular with farmers, and you'll often see everything from hay to wood to jugs of wine hauled in the back. This model is actually the deluxe long-bed model--here's a regular-sized Ape: http://dev.null.org/_gal/i/travel/SmallCarsOfItaly/img_9285?s=V
Like the smart car from yesterday's post, I wouldn't want to travel in one of these mini-trucks, but they are cute to look at...unless you're running late picking your kids up from school (again), and you're stuck behind one of these three-wheeled wonders. Then they're not so cute...
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
Smart (?) cars

In Italy, there's nothing mini about our van...in fact, "mammoth van" would be a more accurate term. It doesn't fit into parking spots. Well, it does...as long as no one is parked on either side of you. (And if that's the case, you can't open your doors, so your exiting options are limited to the rear gate).
Italians love cars like the smart car shown in the photo here. And yes, it is officially called the smart car, written in lower case...even the letters are small. It's built for two people, and if you were sitting in the front (only) seats, you could actually reach back and touch the rear window.
So what's so smart about this car?
1. It's great on fuel economy...and gas here is more than twice the price in America, believe it or not.
2. Parking...you might notice the white lines in the photo, and note the fact that this car is only taking up roughly half its allotted space. I love parking behind these cars.
3. Parking...again. I wish I had a photo to illustrate this, but these cars can actually parallel park sideways--with the nose facing the curb and the rear end facing the traffic. Can we call this perpendicular parking?
What's not so smart about these cars?
1. They're driven in Italy.
2. Where Italians drive (see yesterday's post).
3. Yikes.
My behemoth van may not be cute. Or sleek. Or sporty. But it beats driving in a tin can. As long as I keep driving in circles and don't actually need to park...
Monday, February 05, 2007
A Two-Way Street...sort of
Driving in Italy is a different beast than driving in the U.S. It takes courage, know-how, and lots of luck. Especially luck.
I took this photo in a nearby village from my car this morning (not while driving...I'm not that coordinated). Would you believe this is a two-way street? The village was built hundreds of years ago, so the road is wide enough for a horse and cart--not two cars side-by-side.
And it's so curvy that you can't see the end of the street. So how does one navigate this stretch of road? If you're Italian, you do the following:
1. Maintain your speed as you approach the first curve...maybe even speed up if you're feeling lucky.
2. Hug the right wall and don't worry if there are any pedestrians around the curve--they'll (probably) get out of the way by pressing themselves up against the wall and sucking in their breath when you whiz by.
3. If you meet a car coming in the opposite direction, screech to a halt and hope the other driver does the same.
4. Eye the other driver until one of you decides to back up and let the other pass. (I must admit I have no idea how they decide who has to back up...I'm pretty sure there's some secret signal I'm missing).
5. When the way is clear, step on the gas.
6. Repeat at next curve.
The only ones who always have the right of way are bus drivers...they skip the "screech to a halt" part, leaving you about .729th of a second to throw the gears into reverse and get out of the way, lest they mow you over.
I think I'll stay home today...
Sunday, February 04, 2007
While we're on the topic of home appliances...
Saturday, February 03, 2007
The rest of the view...
These are some of my favorites... after a snow storm, and a winter sunset. Spectacular, aren't they?
Friday, February 02, 2007
The view from my window...
Most of the time.
But then there are the other times...wading my way through the infamous Italian red tape (which I'm pretty sure is represented by the red stripe on the Italian flag ...), the Italian postal system (where "snail mail" takes on new meaning), and parking...don't get me started on parking.
But I didn't want to begin this blog on a negative note, so I thought I'd post a picture of the view from our living room window. On those days when I've battled red tape, something important has been lost in the mail, and I've had to park on the sidewalk because I arrived late to pick up my kids from school, I just take a deep breath (okay, maybe three) and soak in the view from the window...it works even better with a glass of wine in my hand.